Abuna Yemata Guh
There’s nowhere on earth quite like Abuna Yemata Guh. Although less impressive architecturally than most, the church is spectacularly sited within a cliff face, halfway up a sheer rock pinnacle 4km west of Megab. The first 45 minutes of the climb is mildly challenging, with a couple of tricky sheer sections requiring toehold action; guides carry ropes (Birr150) for the final push. The last two minutes require nerves of steel to make the final scramble and precarious ledge walk over a 200m drop.

Even if you don’t make it all the way, it’s still worth getting to where the ledge begins as the views from the baptism chamber are astounding. Inside are beautiful and well-preserved frescoes that adorn two cupolas, while the bones of monks from the open-air tombs lie around.

Mikael Debre Selam
This church or ‘church within a church’ has an exceptional brown-and-white, Aksumite-style facade fronting its inner rock-hewn section. The bright, modern paintings at the front and its beautiful carved arch add an odd but interesting contrast. The setting is lovely and it’s one of our favourites. The 45-minute, one-way climb is strenuous but otherwise not difficult.

The church is clearly visible in the distance, so you could walk there on your own, but finding a direct path would be tough, so hiring a guide is recommended. The walk usually begins 8km northwest of Atsbi. Stay left at the first junction and then turn west at the sign (6km north of Atsbi) until you hit the river; in the growing season you’ll have to stop at the school, 1km before the river. The four daily minibuses from Atsbi to Dera can drop you at the signed junction (Birr10, 10 minutes), but you’ll almost certainly have to walk back to town.

Abuna Abraham
Rectangular in shape, with six massive free-standing pillars, this large and impressive 14th-century church (also known as Debre Tsion) is known for its diverse architectural features, including decorated cupolas, bas-reliefs and carved crosses on the walls and ceiling. It also has beautiful, though faded and damaged, 16th-century murals and an unusual, large 15th-century ceremonial fan. It sits like a fortress on a hill about 500m south of Dugem.

It can be accessed either from Dugem or the same parking area as Yohannes Maequdi. Either way it’s a steep one-hour walk up the back of the mountain.

Abraha We Atsbeha
Architecturally speaking, this 10th-century church is one of Tigray’s finest. It’s large and cruciform in shape, with cruciform pillars and well-preserved 17th- and 18th-century murals and a wonderful wooden door. Some of the church treasures, including what’s believed to be King Atsbeha’s golden shoes, are properly displayed in glass cases in the adjacent museum. It’s by the road 15km west of Wukro or 23km from Megab.

The obtrusive portico was an attempt by Italians to win over locals by proving they weren’t Muslims.

Maryam Korkor
Although an unsightly green from the outside, this impressive, cross-shaped church is known for its architectural features (cruciform pillars, arches and cupolas), fine 17th-century frescos and church treasures. It’s also one of the largest churches in the area. The path begins around 1km from the road just southeast of Megab and involves a fairly steep one-hour ascent. Maryam Korkor is easily combined with nearby Abuna Yemata Guh into an all-day trek from Megab.

Maryam Papaseit
In a pretty valley south of Hawzien and signposted off the Megab-Wukro road, Maryam Papaseit is one of the most accessible and rewarding churches in the region. It’s a semi-monolithic structure (only the ‘Holy of Holies’ is hewn from the rock) while the main sanctuary has some exceptional paintings, most of which date from the 17th century. The church is a moderate one-hour walk from the end of the road.

Painting subjects include the usual mix of Old and New Testament scenes, with Mary and St George prominent – those of the ’24 elders of the apocalypse’ and Jesus washing Peter’s feet are particularly finely rendered.

Medhane Alem Kesho
Also known as Adi Kesho, after its location, this is one of Tigray’s oldest, tallest and finest rock-hewn churches. Its exterior and interior walls are roughly hewn, which only makes the elaborately carved coffered ceiling that much more special. Ask to watch them unlock the door from the inside: rather ingenious indeed! From the end of the 4WD track, it’s a steep-but-easy 10-minute climb to the church. From the highway, you can walk there in about an hour.

Abuna Gebre Mikael
Though not visited very often, this is considered one of Gheralta’s finest churches. The cruciform plan is hewn into a dome-like rock and it has good unfaded frescoes and carefully carved columns, pillars, cupolas and arches. It’s around 15km southwest of Abuna Yemata Guh and requires a steep climb, negotiating a few obstacles on the way; plan on a 3½-hour trip up to the church and back.